It is to our delight that heirloom blooms are the rage among home gardeners. Whether you've added a few old-fashioned varieties to a modern perennial border or plan to restore a garden consisting entirely of historic plants, a few tricks of the trade can guarantee a healthy start to your gardening endeavors this year.

Most gardeners shy away from starting their own plants from seed, preferring instead to purchase transplants in late spring. But before you head off to the local garden center or nursery, consider the many benefits of growing your own seedlings: less expense, more variety, precise timing, and a great feeling of satisfaction that comes from turning seeds into shoots and sprouts!

After an initial investment in materials, it is certainly less expensive to grow your own plants from seeds, especially when large amounts of plant material are required. Likewise, the variety of seeds available from mail order catalogs is immense—much greater than the selection of plants available locally, especially if you are interested in rare or heirloom plants. If you start from seeds, the time of planting can be tailored to your gardening schedule, preventing setbacks that occur with either too-small or root-bound transplants. Imagine the accomplishment you'll feel when you plant your garden this spring with seedlings you've grown yourself!

Nearly all biennial and perennial flowers are suitable for growing indoors from seed—as are the more heat-loving annual varieties. A good rule of thumb to determine when to start your seeds is to count backward 8-12 weeks (for perennials and biennials—or 4-8 weeks for annuals) from the last projected frost date for your area. Seed packets often list more specific information, but as a general rule this will give you good-sized plants to put into the ground after the danger of frost has passed.

Seeds should be sown in shallow sterilized containers in a soilless growing medium. Soilless means exactly what it sounds like—without soil. Garden soil is kept out of the mix because of the weed seeds and disease pathogens that are often found in it and that attack sprouting seeds. Likewise, soil is too dense and doesn't drain freely, but a soilless growing medium contains a proper ratio of finely milled peat, perlite, and vermiculite to drain freely yet retain adequate moisture for germination.

Choose a container suitable to the seeds you are sowing. For seeds as small as ground pepper select open packs or shallow pots; seeds large enough to handle are best started in the cells of multi-packs or in tiny pots where larger roots aren't apt to tangle. Moisten the growing medium to the consistency of a wrung-out sponge. Fill the container to within one inch of the rim by tapping on a hard surface and firming. Using a plant label, make shallow grooves in the growing medium to serve as a guide for sowing seeds. (It is better to sow in rows than to haphazardly sprinkle seeds on the growing medium. Uncrowded seedlings are more likely to transplant easily and remain disease free.)

For the tiniest seeds fold an index card in half lengthwise and place a fair amount of seeds in the crease. Position the card over your row and gently tap it. Seeds will hop off the card with uniform placement. Firm tiny seeds into the growing medium but do not cover. Seeds large enough to handle can be placed in rows or individual containers and barely covered with the growing mix. (Do not water at this point; instead place your container inside a clear plastic bag or cover it with a humidity dome, available at most garden centers. This clear plastic covering fits standard-size nursery trays and is made to keep the seed bed moist throughout germination.) Germination will occur when the seed coat is moistened enough for the first root and shoot to poke through and take hold.

Along with moisture, most seeds require warm temperatures in order to germinate. Soil temperatures should remain at about 70-72 degrees Fahrenheit and are best achieved by placing seed containers on warming cables. If you prefer a less technical approach, sufficient bottom heat can be achieved by placing pots on top of the refrigerator or television set, which generate heat in operation. Likewise, a warm room will do the trick. However, keep pots out of direct sunlight until after germination. Once tender shoots begin to pop through the surface, remove the plastic covering and place pots in bright light. Shop lights fitted with fluorescent bulbs and suspended over the seed pots works well for this purpose. To prevent weak, leggy growth, keep seedlings within a few inches of the light source and raise the light as they grow.

Airflow is also crucial at this point. Position a small household fan set on low a few feet from your seedling trays. When the growing medium is dry to the touch immerse each container in a basin holding an inch or two of water. It takes only a few seconds for sufficient moisture to be absorbed through the drainage holes in the bottom of the container. To prevent rot and encourage deep rooting, remove containers when the soil surface is just moist but not soggy.

It is time to transplant your seedlings when "true" leaves replace the seed (or cotyledon) leaves. Slice a cluster of seedlings from their container and separate individual plants by gently holding onto a leaf—not the stem—and carefully pulling apart. Insert each seedling in its new pot or multipack by making a hole with a pencil in the growing medium at the same depth at which the plant was growing. (An exception to this rule can be made for tomatoes, which benefit from deeper transplanting because they can root along the length of their stems.) Set transplants back under the lights, in a sunroom or hobby greenhouse, or on a bright windowsill. Try to provide at least eight hours of bright light daily. As seedlings get stronger, begin overhead watering, but be careful to do so only as needed. Two weeks after transplanting, feed at half strength with a liquid fertilizer. An organic blend of seaweed and fish emulsion every two weeks thereafter should promote healthy growth.

Prepare your seedlings for the great outdoors by hardening off 10-14 days prior to planting in the ground. Start by placing tender plants in a sheltered location, gradually exposing them to greater amounts of wind and strong sunshine. By the end of this two-week transition period, the plants should be accustomed enough to the outdoors to suffer little or no transplant shock.

If possible, choose an overcast, drizzly day for transplanting. Amend the soil as needed and position each young plant in its hole. Water and protect transplants from strong winds, pelting rain, and hot sun for a few days. After that, tend to your garden as usual. Before you know it, you will be boasting about your plants like a proud parent, for nothing is more rewarding than enjoying the fruits—or in this case even the flowers and vegetables—of your labors!

Old Sturbridge Village Visitor Spring, 2001